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October 15th 2008 by Aaron & Tina
A Bear in Bratislava

Posted under Slovakia

I was the only one of our group who had any desire to see Bratislava, the capital city of Slovakia, and a mere one-hour train ride from Vienna. Part of my motivation was to see a new country (I admit, I’m a closet box-checker), but the other part was my desire to see a city, and country, truly in transition – from Cold War communism to EU membership capitalism. Slovakia is one of the newest European Union member states and is eagerly shedding the remnants of its 45-year communist occupation. Growing up, I was too young to comprehend Reaganomics, the Cold War, or how the world changed when the Berlin Wall fell, but now that I’m older, I’m fascinated by this time in world history. I’m fascinated by Russia. As an ardent capitalist I’m surprised that communism lasted as long as it did. In my lifetime, the balance of power in the world has shifted and I’m eager to learn more.

I have traveled alone often for business and occasionally for pleasure, but after more than a year traveling with the perfect partner I had forgotten how different it is to fly solo. After the initial disorientation of arriving in a new city (and at the wrong train station), I found my way onto a local bus that soon deposited me near the historic city center. Bratislava isn’t a top tourist destination and there isn’t a list of “must sees”, so I decided to roam the mazelike alleys and cobblestone roads of the city center to feel Slovakia’s beating heart. The brisk mid-morning air quickened my step and the liberation of being alone was invigorating. I thought, I can do whatever I want. I’m free to explore to my heart’s content. I am the master of my own domain. So I spent the next hour wandering the vibrant historic streets lined with ornate, colorful, old buildings. Street carts peddled souvenirs to crowds of tour groups in the main square and outdoor patio seating crowded even the most generous spaces.

Ready for a change of scenery, I headed up to Bratislava Castle, a 15th century hilltop fortress overlooking the Danube River. The original castle was mostly destroyed by a 19th century fire and reconstructed in the 1950’s; it was inexplicably closed for renovations when I arrived. However the views were impressive and they provided a different perspective on the city. From the 1970’s era “UFO” Bridge spanning the Danube (the bridge literally has a spaceship-like structure at its apex) to the monolithic housing complexes and other communist-era buildings appearing in the distance, the cityscape retained a Cold War feel. But Bratislava’s race toward modernity was also evident; enormous billboards with consumer-enticing advertisements were omnipresent, cloud-piercing cranes stoically erected new modern buildings, and a disproportionate number of German luxury sedans paced the streets. Beneath the autumnal haze, a city was being transformed.

Returning to the city center I now noticed real estate sales offices (with signs in English), internet cafés, art exhibits and a glut of Starbucks-like coffee shops. Notices posted opportunities for foreign investors. I was surrounded by capitalism in a city that not long before was a bastion of communism. As I continued exploring, I noticed two enormous signs, both covering the entire side of their respective buildings, which proclaimed Slovakia’s currency conversion to the Euro in 2009 – a proud achievement for this developing nation.

My last stop in Bratislava was at a recommended local restaurant called Prasna Basta. After nearly four hours of walking my feet ached for a rest, and as I opened the heavy wooden door and entered a dimly lit, cavernous room full of locals, I knew I was in for a treat. I came here for one reason – to try Slovakia’s national dish, bryndzove halusky. The gnocchi-like dumplings were topped with a generous serving of creamy sheep’s cheese and sprinkled with bacon bits. Paired with a local Slovak beer, the meal was divinely gluttonous.

With just enough koruna left in my pocket to buy a bus ticket to the main train station, I left the restaurant fat, happy, rejuvenated and ready for the train ride “home”.

My daytrip to Bratislava was a great mini adventure; an empowering confirmation that I can still travel alone, self-sufficient and capable in a foreign country. But I missed sharing the experience with the other half of Team Young – my wife, my wonderful travel partner, and the love of my life. Over the last 14 months, Tina and I have shared so many different experiences. Some have been traumatic and stressful, others have been exhilarating and wonderful, but these experiences are a common bond, a special private pact that will always be uniquely ours. I often take for granted how lucky we are to have each other – two crazy adventurers who quit their jobs, sold everything, and traveled the world. I couldn’t imagine doing this with anyone else. Daydreaming, I often flash forward to a time when we’re old with gray hair and wrinkles, sitting together reminiscing about our trip around the world. And I smile.

1 Comment »

One Response to “A Bear in Bratislava”

  1. Bear Mom on 19 Oct 2008 at 3:46 am #

    Aaron,

    What a touching close to this post. I can read into your words how very much you and Tina love each other. I am proud of the choice you made to marry Tina and bring her into our family. You have also given me a daughter to treasure!

    Love, Mom

    PS.. I have been making some small changes in preparation for your return to the States and your visit to Arizona. Lena is noticing the changes and I can tell she knows you are coming home. It probably helps that I talk about your homecoming to her every day.