Posted under Poland
We had booked three nights in Krakow at what turned out to be the best hostel of our entire trip. It was loaded with happy backpacker amenities – complementary breakfast, guest kitchen, free Wi-Fi, towels, stylish modern furnishings, ultra-friendly staff, washer/dryer, wonderful shower, spotlessly clean, reasonably quiet, not to mention the “freaky-deaky” sex mirror above the bed which we probably spent more time giggling about than…).
On the first of our two full days in Krakow, we decided to explore the city. As the former royal capital of Poland, Krakow has some architectural treasures. Wawel Castle and Cathedral, set along a bend in the Vistula River, is Krakow’s most popular tourist attraction. During the one-hour guided tour of the royal private apartments inside the castle, we were disappointed to learn that almost none of the interior furnishings were original. War time plundering had stripped the castle of most of its adornments. The castle’s current furnishings, most of which were transferred from the city’s museums, comprised a lovely collection of European and Oriental treasures. Of particular interest were the antique floor-to-ceiling porcelain heaters.
The most remarkable feature of the cathedral was its bell tower which contained the country’s largest bell, made from the melted metal weapons of defeated foreign armies, and weighing in at 11 tons. We climbed the steep wooden staircase to the top of the tower and were rewarded with superb views of the city.
Krakow’s Old Town is dominated by Rynek Glowny – Europe’s largest medieval market square. The three focal points in the square are the 14th-century St. Mary’s Church; the yellow, 16th-century Renaissance Cloth Hall, and the 15th-century Town Hall Tower. While the other buildings surrounding the square utilize the same juxtaposed style as those in other market squares in Europe, the facades are less grand and more worn. The perimeter is lined with restaurants serving an array of local and international cuisines; the quintessential European horse-drawn carriages abound, but it is the size of the two-hundred-by-two-hundred-meter square that impresses. At the same time, the large size sacrifices the intimate atmosphere that is characteristic of other European squares.
On display in the market square was an interesting photography exhibit of faces from around the world. As we moved from frame to frame, we smiled at the faces from places we’ve been and exchanged mischievous grins as we gazed upon faces from places that we have yet to explore. Another time perhaps. This gruesome twosome is headed HOME on November 4!
We happened upon a grand celebration during our visit to Krakow – the 30th anniversary of the inauguration of Pope John Paul II. The late pope was Krakow’s most beloved son and his memory is honored throughout the city with banners, statues, and various other monuments. The celebration took place just outside the Franciscan Church – known for its Art Nouveau stained-glass windows. We had heard symphony music from down the block and followed our ears to the church, where a symphony orchestra, complete with vocalists, was entertaining a gathering crowd. Outside the church hung banners of the pope; a big-screen TV played a video medley of his public appearances; and a ledge along the sidewalk was covered with colorful memorial candles. It was a lovely tribute – the reverence of the people shone in their faces. And the stained-glass windows inside the Franciscan Church were magnificent!
Krakow is a beautiful old city with modern amenities. The city emerged from WWII relatively unscathed despite its close proximity to the Nazi death camps and despite Poland’s role as a game board for Russian and German armies. With the following day devoted to Auschwitz, our time to explore the city was short. We spent our day pounding the pavement, taking in as much as we could of the cobbled streets, lovely public parks, and beautiful old churches. Between the noticeably chillier fall weather and the enticing comforts of the best hostel ever, it is a wonder that we made it out at all. Still, we were somehow reinvigorated by the nine-hour train ride from Budapest and, with just over two weeks left of this epic journey, we are determined to make each day count!
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